Every fall in October, St. Matthew’s Catholic Church throws
its annual parish carnival to kickoff the school year. The local streets are
closed down and the church and elementary school parking lots are converted
into a makeshift neighborhood theme park complete with carnival rides and food
vendors. In the main lot are the Ferris wheel, bumper cars, and every carnival
game you would find in your local children’s arcade. There’s a even a dunk tank
where carnival goers line up for the chance to see Father Andrew, the parish
pastor, and some of their favorite elementary school teachers plunge into an
icy tub of water. In the smaller adjacent lot, the parents of the school
children, most of whom are Filipino and Latino, have set up booths to showcase
some of the traditional dishes and delicacies of their home countries. One of
the booths is selling Philippine-style pancit
noodles and chicken adobo, while the
stand next to it has prepared several giant pots of pozole as well as carne asada
tacos. Of course, no carnival could be complete without hot dogs, hamburgers,
and funnel cake, all of which are being prepared on the spot at the stand
selling “American Food,” as a large sign so prominently displays. Looking
around, it seems that most of the attendees are members of the parish, but the
event also draws families from the local community and surrounding neighborhoods.
When I first walked in, I ran into the little brother of an old childhood
friend, who said that the St. Andrew’s carnival has functioned as an annual
reunion for him and his elementary school classmates the past ten years. Some
of them have even come as far as San Diego just to be here.
Early
Saturday afternoon of the carnival, I met up with Antonio, a Mexican American
who was born in the United States, but grew up most of his young life in a small
rural town in Michoacan. Promising him his first taste of authentic Filipino
cuisine, Antonio agreed to meet up me that Saturday all the way from his home
in Pacoima in the San Fernando Valley. His neighborhood being predominantly
Latino, Antonio expressed his initial angst about going to the carnival since
he had never really been to Northeast LA. However, once he got there, the
familiarity of the scene calmed his nerves a bit. “There are lots of Filipinos
here, but this reminds me of your typical Latino carnival in Pacoima.” Admittedly
relieved by his relief, I told Antonio to make himself at home. I gave him some
tickets to trade in for some of that authentic Filipino food and waited for him
by a set of benches near the parish recreation room where a silent auction and
bingo were going on. After about twenty minutes, Antonio
had not come back with any food. I became slightly worried that Antonio had
gotten lost, but upon scanning the crowds a bit, I found him engaged in
friendly conversation with an older Filipino man by the Ferris wheel. A few moments
after I spotted Antonio and his new Filipino buddy, a Latina woman in her
forties walked over and joined them. From my angle, they all seemed to be having
a pretty extended discussion about these two cactus-like stems that Antonio was
holding in his right hand.
“They have pitayas here!” Antonio shared excitedly
as he walked back to me. “Dragonfruit, in English, “ he clarified.
“Is that
what y’all were talking about over there?”
“Yeah. I
saw a Latino guy over there carrying the leaves and I asked him if they were pitayas. I assumed he was selling them,”
Antonio said laughingly, catching himself making a stereotype about his own
people. “Then the Filipino guy overheard us and said, ‘Yeah, they are pitayas.’ He pointed to a white guy
around the corner who was selling them. The white guy saw me and the Filipino
guy eyeing him, approached us, and sold me some. Then some Mexican woman came
up to me and asked me if I was
selling them. I told her no, and she walked away.”
“But then she
came back to you guys again? Was that the same lady?”
“Yeah. She
started telling me how much she loves pitayas,
and that she has one in her yard but it has no fruit. She told me she had been
waiting for them to bloom. Richard, the Filipino guy, jumped in and told her
that she had to grow them about fifteen inches apart so that they can grow
fruit. In my mind, I was like, ‘How does this guy know what pitayas were. I thought only Latinos ate
them.’ When I asked him how he knew how pitayas
were grown, he said that they grow them in the Philippines. He said to me that
five-star hotels there serve them in their fruit cocktails.”
“Are those nopales?” An elderly Filipina immigrant woman
interrupted us, referring to the stems in Antonio’s hand. Antonio, looking a
little confused at the Filipina woman’s seamless use of the Spanish term for
cactus, replied that they were not. Slightly disappointed, the woman hiked up
her long dress about an inch or two and showed us her swollen ankles. “Oh, kasi [because] nopales are good for uric acid,” she said, pointing out to us her
recent flare-up of gout, “I’m gonna go get some pozole.” She smiled goodbye and walked away.
“How does
she know that?” Antonio asked, somewhat puzzled, “That’s something my mom or my
grandma would say! Maybe she heard it from one of the Latina ladies.” He seemed
pretty content with his hypothesis.
I shrugged my shoulders. Even I had
never heard of such a home remedy.
After spending a couple of hours at
the carnival, Antonio and I were stuffed from making our second round with the
food vendors and a few dollars short from trying our luck with some of the
carnival games. Before we said our goodbyes, I asked Antonio whether he had a
good time.
“You know, at first, I felt like an
outsider because I’m not from the church or the neighborhood. But at the same
time, I felt like I was in a familiar place because of the setting, the food, the
people. The majority was Filipino, but there were pitayas, pozole. They
were selling guavas. At some point, I saw people whose ethnic background was
questionable. I wasn’t sure if they were Latinos or Filipinos.”
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